Dungeon Master

Here are a few photos from 3 "new" problems I found up on Flag.  To reach this boulder park at the First Overhang parking area, walk like you're going to Peter Beal's new TWBB but before you get there and just after you pass the huge high ball on you right (the Pina Colada boulder) turn right down a narrow path, the problems are right there on the steep east face of the Pina Colada.  

For Right Dungeon Master (v7ish) start with you hands matched on the sloppy rail with bad crimps, right heal up and right, huck to the lip with your right hand match and finish as you may.  For Left Dungeon Master (v8ish) start with your left heal on the rail out left and go with your left hand to the lip, match the lip and finish as you may.  Right and Left actually climb quite a bit differently, enjoy.  Oh, EZ Harrison got the FA of RDM.  Left was left undone until I went up today to finish (note, this problem was untouched as of last saturday).  I arrived to find someone chalking up getting ready to try the problem.  I wasnt sure how to feel, I was psyched to see that people didnt think the problem I put up was a pile but I also wanted to get the FA on the left variation.  Well, the kid Alex M.... somthing German, super cool nice guy from Florida, ubber strong, sent left before I had even warmed up, a half an hour later I was warmed up and sent.  I did ask him not to climb it becuase I had found, scrubbed and sorted out the sequence but he was a bit determined to climb the problem so I said go for it.

With Right DM I took EZ and Wade to the problem cause I was psyched to get people on the problem and wanted to share the love on a cool new steep problem.  I guess what I comes down to is that in bouldering you can't claim sending rights and maybe that's for the best 'cause it aint your work, other than the scrubbing and searching, it's open game.  More thoughts on this later, I was just psyched to finish Dungeon Master.  

After doing Left Dungeon Master I scrubbed and did some problem to the left which is in the v4-6 range, fun and steep and a bit commiting... bring pads and spotters.  Start on the chalked up jug out left, make some big moves, and finish on the top out hold on Dungeon Master, maybe uhhhh Reluctant Dragon is a good name for it.  Be careful, this problem may still be shedding.