Digesting Big Spurious Perms
In the meantime I finished up on Resonator (13a... the contrived but cooler way), the Orb13b but maybe a/b if one uses a rubber knee as I did, or two as others have done, and Mirror Mask (v10, not v11 as it has been called),
made a trip to independence pass (see www.independencebouldering.com for Greg's work towards developing the rock up there) with Brent, Terra, Clink and Katie Whipple who took a big fall on her bum, tough girl, shook it off and got on the most amazing 11a I’ve ever been on; pumpy, amazing holds, slopers, slab, heal hooks, dyno, jugs, perfect, and at 11a called Baba Fats,
"Well, that is that," says Baba Fats, sitting back down on his stone, Facing another thousand years of talking to God, alone. "Yes, Lord, it's always the same...old men or bright-eyed youth... It's always easier to sell 'em some shit than it is to tell them the truth."
Shel Silverstein
I’ll post on the Greeley experience and working in youth corrections next. Climbing goals for this fall are limited but I want to get back up to Tiempos de Ciegas (13c) in Boulder Canyon and wrap that up. I also want to finish Gorillas (v10/11) in area B at Evans. That’s would wrap up a darn fine season and send me off to Vail in style.
Below is a little thing that I climbed above Dave Grahm’s Big Worm, I’m calling it Big Perm, V4 (probably done already but if not... call it Big Perm V4)...8 in-cut crimps up slightly overhanging rock to slopey top out, but if you’re climbing v4, climbing this thing would be down right foolish, falling from the top moves, the crux, would break something... and you know this. I scrubbed and did all the moves on the problem to the left of Big Perm but couldn’t commit up high, the crux is up high and off balance on this thing, big supper cool and about v5 over all, start in the underclings and go up.


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