Dungeon Master

Here are a few photos from 3 "new" problems I found up on Flag.  To reach this boulder park at the First Overhang parking area, walk like you're going to Peter Beal's new TWBB but before you get there and just after you pass the huge high ball on you right (the Pina Colada boulder) turn right down a narrow path, the problems are right there on the steep east face of the Pina Colada.  

For Right Dungeon Master (v7ish) start with you hands matched on the sloppy rail with bad crimps, right heal up and right, huck to the lip with your right hand match and finish as you may.  For Left Dungeon Master (v8ish) start with your left heal on the rail out left and go with your left hand to the lip, match the lip and finish as you may.  Right and Left actually climb quite a bit differently, enjoy.  Oh, EZ Harrison got the FA of RDM.  Left was left undone until I went up today to finish (note, this problem was untouched as of last saturday).  I arrived to find someone chalking up getting ready to try the problem.  I wasnt sure how to feel, I was psyched to see that people didnt think the problem I put up was a pile but I also wanted to get the FA on the left variation.  Well, the kid Alex M.... somthing German, super cool nice guy from Florida, ubber strong, sent left before I had even warmed up, a half an hour later I was warmed up and sent.  I did ask him not to climb it becuase I had found, scrubbed and sorted out the sequence but he was a bit determined to climb the problem so I said go for it.

With Right DM I took EZ and Wade to the problem cause I was psyched to get people on the problem and wanted to share the love on a cool new steep problem.  I guess what I comes down to is that in bouldering you can't claim sending rights and maybe that's for the best 'cause it aint your work, other than the scrubbing and searching, it's open game.  More thoughts on this later, I was just psyched to finish Dungeon Master.  

After doing Left Dungeon Master I scrubbed and did some problem to the left which is in the v4-6 range, fun and steep and a bit commiting... bring pads and spotters.  Start on the chalked up jug out left, make some big moves, and finish on the top out hold on Dungeon Master, maybe uhhhh Reluctant Dragon is a good name for it.  Be careful, this problem may still be shedding.

  

A Felt Swan and Sexy Knife

Got two exams next week, had 1 this week in Pharm, exam was hard, lots of different material, covered Asthma, OTC cold meds, some anti-depressants, some cardiac drugs some Glaucoma drugs all draped under the umbrella of the autonomic nervous system.  So next week is COPD, MI's, Angina, Chest X-rays, Intoxications, Altitude Sickness, and Vaginal Bleeding.  I've put in some time studying today and am going to study a bit tomarow morning but then me and some hommies are driving to Silverton to ski are tails off on my 33rd (my Lord it's true) birthday.  Side note: I went to a free yoga class at Lululemon in Cherry Creek tonight and it was dope.  There were about 15 of us and we all chilled, ate chocolate and drank some vino tinto juntos despues, in el tienda... fue muy differente de los classes in Boulder che yo se tan bien. 

This past week I got my psych back for climbing strong again.  The stress of this semester was hampering my finger strength, making me not sleep so good and making me sedentary and heavy.  So, last week I shook it up a bit by goin out salsaing one night and climbing 7 out of the last 9 days with quick sessions (1 day at Dark Waters, one day in Eldo, two days at morrison and a few days in RNJ north).  I'm also going to start traing with David Wahl down at RNJ, give it a shot for a month.  I'll post my reviews of this next week.  

I have some big goals for this year in climbing. I've fully abandoned trad climbing for the mean time and want to finish some sport routes and some boulder problems.  The Orb (13b) and Tiempos de Ciegas (13b/c) both in Boulder Canyon, the sit start to Silver Back (v12) in Evans and Replacement Killers (v11)  in Boulder Canyon are at the top of the list.  The Orb isn't even a training thing, I just need to go up and finish.  Replacements I've done all the moves too. Anyway, time to train, Spring aint far away.  Oh, then there's my Joe's list.  More on that later.

I'll leave y'all with this poem from Naruda, until next week.

Walking Around

I happen to be tired of being a man.

I happen to enter tailorshops and movie houses

withered, impenetrable, like a felt swan

navigating in a water of sources and ashes

The smell of barbershops makes we wail.

I want only a respite of stones or wool,

I want only not to see establishments or gardens,

or merchandise, or eyeglasses, or elevators.

I happen to be tired of my feet and my nails

and my hair and my shadow.

I happen to be tired of being a man,

Nevertheless it would be delightful

to startle a notary with a cut lily

or kill a nun with a blow to the ear.

It would be lovely

to go through the streets with a sexy knife

and shouting until I froze to death

I don't want to go on being a root in the dark,

vacilating, stretched out, shivering with sleep, 

downward, in the soaked guts of the earth, 

absorbing and thinking, eating each day.

I don't want for myself so many misfortunes.

I don't want to continue as root and tomb,

just underground, a vault with corpses

stiff with cold, dying and distress.

That is why Monday day burns like petroleum

when it sees me coming with my jailbird face,

and as it passes it howls like a wounded wheel,

and it takes hot-blooded steps toward the night.

And it pushes me into certain corners, into certain moist houses,

into hospitals where the noes stick out the windows, 

into certain shoe stores with a smell of vinegar,

into streets as frightening as chasms.

There are brimstone-colored birds and horrible intestines 

hanging from the doors of the houses that I hate,

there are dentures left forgotten in a coffeepot,

there are mirrors

that ought to have wept from shame and fright,

there are umbrellas everywhere, and poisons, and navels.

I walk around with calm, with eyes, with shoes,

with fury, with forgetfulness,

I pass, I cross by offices and orthopedic shoe stores,

and courtyards where clothes are hanging from a wire:

underdrawers, towels and shirts that weep

slow, dirty tears.

--Pablo Naruda, about 1973 from Residence on Earth