Femoral Neck Fractures and the Cliffs of Insanity

Above Vanessa "V" Compton and Jacky chat as Schulte takes a cool down lap on the amazing v4ish flake in Area B Mount Evans, gosh darn this thing is cool. Bye bye to V. Below Schulte, feeling good, glows below his own Silver Surfer (v10) also in area B. The rain cleared and the afternoon sun was notched down to mild and warm, there was breeze, things were sticky.

Me on Last Dance (v6 difficulty, full-value v8 spook), about to do the crux moves at mid hight and then turn into a spooked mouse and drop off the wall like a writhing rotten apple, again. I may need to TR this one to be able to feel comfortable committing this high, soy pansy.
Ben Elkon on a new line in the Cliffs of Insanity (v8/9ish)? Kwality.
Below Elkon is struggling to overcome the weight of long days in inpatient medicine on a new big squeezy line that I did (Prince Humperdinck, V5/6 from the sit). I was post call and had only slept from 8am-11am then saw how nice the weather was so headed out with someone hurtin' almost as much as me.
Undone but soon to be done line below the previous two (v6-ish pump from the low right sit). A much harder start awaits a large biceps wielding me that is akin to the first move of Handy-Caps.

I just finished my rotation at Panorama Trauma Ortho/St. Anthony's Central ED. The most startling thing I saw there was not a single case or gore in the ED or an I and D with puss in the OR but a pattern of old white women with broken hips. Girls, please, exercise and get your calcium and get your bone scan and meds. Interestingly I went to a pharm-sponsored dinner where the talk was on bisphosphonates and how prevention was the answer because surgery didn't bring most of these women back to functional. And yes, I'm still psyched on ortho surg. Next is Denver Health Neonatology, wahoo! I'm going to try to post once an month with a review of my rotation and sooner if anything amazing is sent or learned.

Hanging Surrender

When I paint draw or write it is an idea or a state of being, a feeling, an essence that I'm trying to capture, not verbal crafts or an attempt at being a camera, the point is much more in the emotions evoked.  The above was done with my grade school bee's wax crayons from the Waldorf School (they are so old they say "made is West Germany" on the side) from my crazy-creek (actually Luna Kyle's crazy creek) while watching the sun light dwindle in right fork of Joe's Valley.

In Joe's I re-read Ken Wilber's "No Boundary," here's a quote: "In blindly pursuing progress, our civilization has in effect institutionalized frustration... the more we succeed in this adventure of progress, the more we actually fail, and hence the more acute our sense of total frustration.  The root of the whole difficulty is our tendency to view the opposites as irreconcilable."  Maybe this thought can be used to view our culture of medical advances with little overall improvement in life satisfaction.  Advances in medicine hold the promise of less suffering but maybe we simultaneously reject the idea that suffering is part of being human and even part of happiness and that maybe the body is wise to express more than 1 mode of being.  Not to say we should all suck it up and live in caves and suffer and find some sort of ascetic enlightenment just saying that social and inter and intra-personal and kinetic intelligence are indispensable in the application of technology. 

Below is post-rehab Tara Gee on a classic Red Cliff Kluttergarden warm up.  If Brent sees the position of her shoulder in this photo he may not be psyched.  I did a new v8/9 up in Red Cliff this day and was psyched, but was not able to repeat my project from last summer Dem Apples (which is harder than the other v8's up there, it may be v9ish) over at the Aircraft Carrier.
The next few photos are from a bouldering area that may be "new" and just up the hill from Boulder.  I stumbled upon these boulders when I caught the sent of a potential route up the hill while on a short jog.  The jog turned into a 3 hour adventure and I was late to my 1st over night call shift at St. A's.  I'll post specific location after I get up there a few more times.  If anyone recognizes these photos let me know, I haven't posted picture of the amazing boulders up the hill from these, those photos will come soon.  That said, these here boulders don't suck.  This area has problems as good as some in the Satellites, but a bit more spread out, a few problem may be qualify as off the chiz-ain.


There's an amazing line up the arete and up the face.
There are two distinct lines on this boulder.
On the back this boulder is one of the better problems I've seen in the area.  On this face are 2 lines than look super cool.
Sometimes Joe's puts cool little rocks on top of other rocks so the little rocks have a view too.  If you've been to Joe's you know the little dark deposits that you find in the rock there; this is one of those deposits but it's fallen out of the hillside and perched itself below the Salsa Verde boulder.
Sick new chalk bag from Jeff Struck in Stump Town.  Word hommie.
Sometimes you forget where you are in Joe's and you pull on tuffas.

So here's a little Joe's update (I was going to take photos of these new problems but it started raining on me and I left so I wasn't tempted to climb on the wet sandstone holds):

Bring the Heatwall V8--directly below G2-07 (another rad v8), cool steep trickery to wild top-out

River Runs Though it v8--left fork, mile marker 6, rare compression in Joe's

Black Continent v8--left fork, mile marker 8

Chunky Monkey v7/8--just down the hill and up the road (visible from the road) from Team Effort, right fork

Playmate of the Year v9 and Battle Toads v10--above the house on the right side of the road near the mine in right fork

I will take picture and post better directions after my next trip out.