Terminal Bush Whacking

I've been holding out on the update because things have been complicated, lots of visiting different universes with one part of the body while other part of the whole was somewhere else, wandering in marshes at 11k feet boulder hunting, pondering location and wondering if wondering is worth the effort or if not wondering is possible, and injured to boot with an A2 pulley partial rupture while warming up. It's 2 weeks now without using the injured finger, I figure I have maybe a month more of rehabing it.

Before injury I was thinking that both Slander (v11) in Area D in Evans and Gorillas (v10/11) were going to go down very quick, was feeling the beast and the weightlessness, but now denied. I'd even started working No More Greener Grasses (v12) in Area A Evans, , after watching Angie crush, a steep crimps fest' and was feeling psyched and like it was very possible.... Prey for quick recovery. Jason Kahl recommended heat, Carlo Traversi recommended vitamin-I and cool soaks, others recommended splinting. I'm trying a mix of many things and I'll let y'all know what I find.

So the next few post are going to be more medical. As I have all of next week to wait on jobs to come through I'll be posting on some topics I've been reading up on. The last two may take me into the Fall to post on but I will be following up on these topics:

1) Ligament and Tendon Repair and NSAID use

2) Female Ligament/Tendon injury and Ovulation, Considerations for Prevention

3) Muscle Growth: the Number vs Size question

4) Muscle Activation and Mental Fatigue, Implications for Training and Sending

Dem Apples (v8/9)

Had a great weekend hanging with amigos in Redcliff, bouldering a bit and swimming in the river. I went back to film this problem that I did back in 8/08 when I was living in Vail doing my Steadman rotation (see previous post). Grade? Well, the summer that I did this thing first I was able to do Cool Arete in a session and all the other v8's in Redcliff during my afternoon circuit, but this thing took me many many days to sort out. That said, that was the summer that I went to Rodellar, Spain for sport climbing. This spring I've been on a rope less than 5 times and the power is up. I went back to the problem and it didnt feel to bad, maybe it is v8, maybe easier, maybe harder, got my thug strength in full effect these days. Here's the video. Thanks to Matt and Kristen and Annie for going back here to spot and film.

Oh, other new problem that Mercedes showed me on this trip is called Mercutio (v6) just left of the Start Crossed Lovers (v6), fun dynamic moves with a tree tickling your back. I guess she got the first female send, sorry no video of this one.

and then moments later, choosing the mantle over trusting that slick foot...

I'll be updating y'all on my PA-C status, job hunt, and where I'm living sometime this week. Sorry for slacking on the blog.